Hoi Ha to Ko Tong Hau
Summer hiking is better wetter. Hoi Ha to Ko Tong Hau is a beautiful route with plenty of swimming opportunities, says Jackie Peers.
Hands up if you know Long Harbour (Tai Tan Hoi). You should, it’s one of the largest and most serene bodies of water in our vicinity. Puzzled? I’ll help you. You’ll know some of its landmarks. It’s the large inlet that cuts into the north of the Sai Kung peninsula that we’re all so fond of. Grass Island (Tap Mun) stands sentry at its mouth, and Wong Shek pier is at its southernmost point.
This month’s walk connects the pier with Hoi Ha, Hong Kong’s most accessible marine reserve. It’s quiet and pretty, with views of peaceful coves the whole way, and especially lovely now with the rose myrtles flowering. It’s a summer or family walk of less than two hours, although you can prolong the pleasure with a 45-minute detour along the marked nature trail. It’s easily accessible by public transport, even though it’s just a beat of wings as the crow flies from Tai Long Wan beach, which is always described as so remote. Take the Hoi Ha green minibus from Sai Kung - or if you have a canine companion who insists on coming too, like we do, a taxi from Pak Tam Chung car park costs $60. (You’ll see “No Dogs” signs at Hoi Ha, but they relate to the beach itself at weekends. With good reason. Our Fergus would do swift and irredeemable damage to the much-loved pets of the Angora rabbit club who often enjoy the fresh air there.)
This month’s walk connects the pier with Hoi Ha, Hong Kong’s most accessible marine reserve. It’s quiet and pretty, with views of peaceful coves the whole way, and especially lovely now with the rose myrtles flowering. It’s a summer or family walk of less than two hours, although you can prolong the pleasure with a 45-minute detour along the marked nature trail. It’s easily accessible by public transport, even though it’s just a beat of wings as the crow flies from Tai Long Wan beach, which is always described as so remote. Take the Hoi Ha green minibus from Sai Kung - or if you have a canine companion who insists on coming too, like we do, a taxi from Pak Tam Chung car park costs $60. (You’ll see “No Dogs” signs at Hoi Ha, but they relate to the beach itself at weekends. With good reason. Our Fergus would do swift and irredeemable damage to the much-loved pets of the Angora rabbit club who often enjoy the fresh air there.)
Along the eastern shore of Hoi Ha are lime kilns, remnants of Hong Kong’s oldest industry, which converted coral reefs into calcium oxide with a blast of heat. Around the corner is the Jockey Club Marine Life Centre, which has a glass-bottomed boat and runs educational programmes. The greatest pleasure lies ahead though. Each twist and turn of the trail, which winds gently along the hillside, reveals tantalisingly blue marine views when the sun’s out. If you feel like a swim – and you most likely will - there’s a lovely beach at Nam Fung Wan, and a smaller, quieter beach just before the last push to Wong Shek Pier, which is also an ideal spot for the relaxed consumption of a buttered scone.
Not all Government architecture thrills, but they didn’t do badly with Wong Shek Pier. However, you can miss it altogether and come out at Ko Tong Hau, where there is also a bus stop. You’ll have company at weekends, but if you sneak out during the week you’re likely to have Long Harbour all to yourself.
How to get there
Take Hoi Ha green minibus to start point, return on bus no.94.
